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Day 1 - Sunday 17 June
The group gathered at Lanseria airport in Johannesburg on a chilly Sunday 17 June at 07h00 and met each other, receiving Getaway Caps and travel documents from the tour organisers. Delaney, a 1942 vintage DC3 (Dakota) aircraft was readied and we boarded (after a group photograph) at about 08h00.
Take off was smooth and we climbed to our cruising altitude of 9000 feet above sea level, heading north for Bulawayo for immigration and customs formalities. Shortly after crossing the Botswana and Zimbabwe borders, the left hand engine started giving indications of fuel starvation and the pilot turned back with Pietersburg in SA's Northern Province being chosen for a precautionary landing. This was reached without incident.
After about two hours on the ground, a bit of technical fiddling and refuelling it was once again take off and head north. Not for long though, as after about 30 minutes, we once again turned back, this time heading back for Johannesburg which was reached in the mid afternoon. Debon Air, owners of the aircraft (now christened Delay-ney) accommodated the group overnight in the nearby Shuma Valley Lodge. Our replacement aircraft was to be Victoria, also a DC3 and take-off was scheduled for 06h00 the next morning. [Top] |
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Day 2 - Monday 18 June
The wonderful sight of Venus just west of the crescent Moon greeted early risers, and as promised, Victoria took off at 06h00 and Bulawayo was reached without incident. While the aircraft refuelled, the group cleared customs and immigration and we were soon in the air again, heading for Kariba, where we landed shortly after 11h00.
Transport to take us to Anchorage Marina was ready and waiting and once at Anchorage Marina we were allocated our houseboats, which were to be home for the next two days. Houseboats used were Karibezi, BarBelle, NaviStar and Morning Star. Once we were aboard, we set off at a leisurely 4 knots for the Matusadona Game Reserve on the southern shore of Lake Kariba.
Not a cloud in the sky and an ideal situation to check gear (for the umpteenth time) and to look for sunspots.
Matusadona was reached at dusk and an evening Game Cruise was laid on for all. The famous sunken trees of Kariba were everywhere and provided a grand sunset photo opportunity for all. Back on the houseboats, the ever helpful crews had prepared dinner and bedding and after a great evening of socialising (and Zambezi Lager) it was off to bed. [Top] |
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Day 4 - Wednesday 20 June (24 hours to go)
Another crystal clear morning, no clouds in sight, and the Moon edging closer to the sun, with just a thin crescent visible, almost in the glare of the sun. This would be the last sighting of the Moon before it came in-between the Sun and us. An early start ensured we were back at moorings before 09h30 to await the transport to take us to Mvuu Lodge on the Zambian side of the Zambezi River. Transport duly arrived in the form of two busses, and a happy group set off for the Zimbabwe border post above the Kariba Dam wall. The Zimbabwe border crossing was fairly uneventful and the usual offical bungling minimal. Obviously, all had been told to "be nice to the tourists". A short sightseeing walk on the Kariba wall was taken, and then the climb up the hill to the Zambian Border Post. Crowds of people there, all with a similar mission! However, we were all cleared in a few minutes and off again, past money changers, curio sellers and then over (mostly) surfaced roads to Chirundu, where we turned left and headed for the Lower Zambezi Valley. Just before Chirundu, lunch was taken at a truck stop and weary posteriors were rested. |
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Here the road surface changed from surfaced to unsurfaced, gradually deteriorating into abominable. The Kafue River was crossed by pontoon. Especially for the eclipse, tractors on each bank, which hauled the pont to and fro across the river, had replaced the normal hand winching.
Locals indicated that there were more people in the Zambezi Valley than since the advent of humankind! More vehicles had entered the valley in the past three days than had in the past ten years. Eclipse fever was everywhere, from the signs advertising eclipse cultural experiences in every village, to the hundreds of local children lining the road into the valley, all cheering and asking for sweets and eclipse shades. They surely had no idea of what experience was heading their way!
After five hours travel over ever deteriorating roads we at last arrived at Mvuu Lodge (Place of the Hippo) with our tents ready for us, supper being cooked and coffee and tea waiting. There were also ice-cold Zambezi's a-plenty, just what was needed to wash down the Zambian dust. Still crystal clear skies. I scurried off to find Glenn Schneider and get the latest weather information, which was excellent. No cumulous likely, and only a 10% chance of light cirrus in the south. Evening consisted of readying tents, final checks on equipment, and filter making for those who did not have these ready. A restless night - (who can sleep the night before an eclipse?) [Top] |
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Day 5 - 21 June (ECLIPSE DAY)
I was first up - clear skies! No moon visible in the east as it was too close to the sun. Much more filter making, using all of the available Mylar, cereal boxes, cardboard strips and glue. In the end, almost everyone had filters for at least their binoculars.
After breakfast the advance party left for the pre-surveyed location on the banks of the Chongwe River, about 16km further downstream. The rest of the group were to follow in the busses, together with lunch and Zambezi's. The location was excellent, GPS co-ordinates obtained and a last minute predictions done. Equipment unpacked, compass bearings obtained and the best locations chosen. Lunch was taken early and then the group moved down to the banks of the river to await first contact. Everyone, under penalty of 6 Zambezi's for every flash, placed black tape over camera flashes!
First contact was right on time, and soon the tiniest bite could be seen on the Sun's western limb. Gradually the partial phase deepened and the ambient light dimmed and became greyer. At about 70%, some baboons came down to the river to drink, and the butterflies disappeared. Crescents appeared under the bushes. The feeling of unreality became more intense as the light continued to fade. Birds were quiet, the bush became silent. |
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"Baily's Beads!"
"Filters Off!"
"Diamond Ring!"
were the cries, and in a rush totality was on us - only time for two quick shots of the diamond ring, and then reset f/stop, reset shutter speeds, and into the totality photo sequences, with the tape recorder counting down the seconds remaining. Shadow bands appeared on the sandy beach of the Chongwe River just before totality.
The symmetrical corona with many many spikes in all directions, prominences everywhere, an indigo sky tinged with reddish-orange for the full 360 degree horizon, and this black orb where the Sun used to be.
The different bird sounds, sounds of frogs croaking in the river and the wow's and aah's and excitement of the group, most of whom had never seen totality before, some who had been clouded out in Europe in 1999 all added to the unreal and awesome experience of totality.
Dark, but not so dark. And all dominated by the magnificent corona and the red prominences extending all around the Moon's edge.
"Diamond Ring!"
"Baily's Beads!"
"Filters On!"
and it was over - 3 minutes 24.5 seconds was what we had received, and it had felt like only 30 seconds. |
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Day 7 - 23 June
At 07h00, the convoy departed Mvuu. Back to the pont over the Kafue River, still with tractor power, and on to Chirundu, the truck stop for a short break, and then Kariba. Border crossings were easily done with friendly officials. A quick stop for souvenirs in Kariba, and then to the airport by 12h10 to await Delaney, who we were assured was en-route and just returning from a Victoria Falls excursion.
No Delaney!
News was that the left hand engine had finally given up and the aircraft had to make an emergency landing at Vic Falls. We were stranded. As Kariba Airport closed at 18h00 and did not have landing lights, there was no chance to get off before the next day. It was off to the Carribbea Bay Resort for an overnight stay. Fortunately it was a very comfortable hotel and a good supper and many Zambezi's tempered the disappointment of not getting home. [Top] |
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Day 8 - 24 June
Breakfast at 08h00, and then the wait for news of a replacement charter. First one plan, then another. More waiting, people now getting disgruntled, especially those with onward connections. The cold Zambezi's helped a bit. At last arrangements were made for a flight from Victoria Falls to Harare to be diverted to Kariba, and then a charter from Harare to Johannesburg. We eventually set off for Harare after 17h30, just making the airport deadline and landed there an hour later. Through immigration and customs, precious films clutched in hand to avoid the dreaded X-Ray and onto the HS748 for the flight to Lanseria, Johannesburg, where we landed at about 23h15.
A long, hot and dusty journey into the heart of pristine and wild Africa, with some air travel disruptions, but all crowned by the magnificent experience of a total solar eclipse.
Roll on 4 December 2002! [Top] |
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THANKS TO:- |
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Natal Portland Cement (my employers) for the loan of the IBM ThinkPad.
Hewlett-Packard for the loan of the HP 315 Digital Camera.
Cliff Turk for the quick supply of large amounts of Mylar at short notice.
Trade Litho for the pre-cut strips of cardboard for filter making. [Top] |
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Charles - my supplier of Zambezi´s |
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The most beautiful diamond in the world cannot compare with the diamond rings of the eclipse. If God is part of the nature, the eclipse is the reflection of the twinkle in God´s eyes. The total eclipse represents the rose of the universe, shining bright in all its glory, but short-lived with a sense of deep sentimental shock and an awe of wonder that leaves one speechless! Lothar Karthein |
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I understand the simple physics of eclipses, but that is not all there is to an eclipse - the sheer power of that Star to keep the earth illuminated until the last second before totality is amazing. I have never seen the corona in its majesty before - it was magnificent. A truly mystical experience. Geraldine Bennun |
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I personally was very impressed by my first total solar eclipse, in nice company. I had tears running over my face - a very emotional time. Helga Eickmann |
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It came as every time in human history - the confusion starts with the diamond. While all people looked at the shining diamond of heaven, I was speechless. When I actually found the corona I managed a couple of good photos, and just when the goodbye diamond was seen my camera asked for a new film! An exciting moment in an excitingnly spectacular environment! Andreas Reinhold |
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I am familiar with the pwer and stability of the Sun - everyone is equally familiar. I found it deeply disturbing to see the sun being negated while still in the sky. I was unprepared for the sheer beauty of the moment which startled me. Mervyn Bennun |
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I had read the books, I'd gone into the reasoning behind eclipses, I'd watched the videos, I knew what was going to happen, and when and why.
But nothing prepared me for the real thing.
As the darkness encroached on the blazing heat of the day, as the animals, birds and insects went silent, as the sudden coldness pierced the air, I knew this was something very special indeed. As the light went out, as the diamond ring appeared, I came out in goosebumps. As totality lingered briefly, I found my face wet with tears.
As sunlight appeared again, I reflected on the sheer wonder of nature, and the total insignificance of humankind in the overall scheme of things.
Reaching for the champagne, I was starting to plan how to get to the next one......... Clare Delayney-Young |
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Books and videos cannot describe the real experience of totality.
The whole "build-up" to the eclipse with tripods/cameras/chairs/your count-down tape and then with a bang we had totality above us!
I remember that I was speechless until Baily's Beads, astonished that the tears were running down my cheeks, it was an awesome natural phenomenon. The diamond ring was splendid but too short, the corona so symmetrical and beautiful, unfortunately only 3.24 min.
But we are definitely now hooked and are planning our future trips around an eclipse!
Ellen Ancker |
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Our party arrived at the appointed place in a clearing on the bank of the Chongwe River to set up our cameras. Soon we saw through our filters that the moon was beginning to eat the sun. Slowly but inexorably the bite grew bigger until eventually we felt the warmth of the sun ebbing away. Shadows became spiky, and a dusk seemed to settle. The pace of sensory stimulation quickened as new thrills piled one on another. A mounting crescendo of delights climaxed when the serene calm of totality burst forth. Going all the way has to be experienced for oneself. Words or pictures fall far short of conveying the cosmic miracle. Just like sex. Peter Finsen |
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